fix invalid use of access function in nftw

fix invalid use of access function in nftw

access always computes result with real ids not effective ones, so it
is not a valid means of determining whether the directory is readable.
instead, attempt to open it before reporting whether it's readable,
and then use fdopendir rather than opendir to open and read the
entries.

effort is made here to keep fd_limit behavior the same as before even
if it was not correct.